Tribune Review

Travels influence Cala Lily's elegant, eclectic fare

By Karin Welzel
TRIBUNE-REVIEW
 Sunday, March 20, 2005

Editor's note: This article was modified Sunday, March 20, 2005, to remove incorrect information about a possible relocation of Cala Lily Cafe. Mark's North Park Lounge Field Club at the Oxford Club, Pine, has not closed and continues to be in business at its normal hours.

Eclectic, but familiar. Classic, but contemporary. European, yet American.

That's the cuisine at Cala Lily Cafe -- co-owner and executive chef Rick "Chico" Rivero shortens it to "Euro-American," but the description doesn't do it justice. His fare features influences from the places he's lived -- Spain, Germany and France, as well as the American Southwest and his Mexican ancestry -- coupled with contemporary twists.

"People love our Wiener Schnitzel (with egg, anchovies and capers) and Paella," Rivero says, naming some of the popular dishes. "Then, of course, there's the Lobster Ravioli, and among the appetizers, the Poblano Chile Relleno with Spanish Drunken Goat's Cheese."

 

 

 

 The restaurant is in an unlikely place, in a small, humble shopping center along Route 8 in Richland that used to be a bar and lounge. You'd never know of the elegant cuisine merely by looking at the facade.

Rivero and friend Paul Anzaldi opened Cala Lily Cafe four years ago. They met while working at Rico's Italian Restaurant in Ross. Another Rico's veteran, Ron Jelinek, serves as Cala Lily's sous chef.

Diners can indulge in diverse appetizers that include Poached Calamari and Sea Scallops

accompanied by Lemon Wasabi, Aged Soy and Pickled Ginger; Hot Banana Peppers Stuffed with Homemade Sausage, Tomato Sauce and Jack Cheese; and Danish Brie Bake, featuring Fancy Mushrooms, Dried Tomatoes, Garlic, Pepper Flakes and Toasted Foccacia.

Grilled pickled beets are the foundation of one of the salads; for conservatives, there is Elegant Greens Blend with Fresh Market Berries and House Vinaigrette.

Although the desserts aren't listed on Cala Lily's Web site, they are homemade and presented to diners on a tray. If Jelinek's Chocolate Mousse Pie is among the selections, it's worth saving room for a piece de resistance ending to the meal.

Jelinek prepares the pies one at a time, by hand, choosing different liqueurs to complement the rich chocolate filling. He shared one version of his recipe with Cooking Class readers that would make a stellar Easter dessert.