Eclectic Cala Lily Cafe in full bloom

By Sally A. Quinn
TRIBUNE-REVIEW
Thursday, January 24, 2008

Since opening in 2001, Cala Lily Cafe and chef Rick "Chico" Rivero have caught the attention of foodies and neighbors in a most unlikely locale. The Route 8 strip of businesses is hardly conducive to discovery by drive-by traffic. But it is a testimony to Cala Lily's success, that in spite of its humble setting, the restaurant is going strong into its seventh year.

Inside the storefront, a faux hallway is formed with a wrought-iron screen and red brocade fabric. Swoops of fabric crisscross the ceiling, slightly masking the acoustic tiles above. Tables for the 50-seat dining room are covered in red or white linens, some under glass. Red linen napkins are accordion-folded and standing at place settings. The Cala Lily motif repeats throughout in prints and on the etched-glass tabletop oil lamps. Over the bar area in the next room, an oversize chandelier appears as a mass of gold and white drooping lilies. Chairs and tables are wrought iron, reminiscent of a garden party on red brick-like ceramic tiles.

Service during two recent visits was welcoming and attentive, yet unobtrusive. Between kitchen runs, our waitress kept watch over her tables from a far wall. The feeling was that with a simple look or gesture, she would have been quickly at hand to respond to a request. The hostess and young busgirl also kept watching, filling water glasses and removing plates.

The crowd includes friendly neighborhood regulars in addition to those celebrating a special occasion or enjoying an end-of-week treat.

Hot-from-the-oven rolls tempt the appetite while you peruse the menu.

Rivero's background -- Spanish born, of Mexican descent, well traveled throughout Europe -- informs his eclectic menu that melds a variety of cuisine into a standing menu that he calls Euro American. But it is influenced as well by Asian persuasions.

The Ginger-Wasabi Chicken Strips ($7.95) appetizer is a good example. The tender and juicy chicken strips are sauteed and tossed with black tuxedo sesame seeds. They sit in savory and creamy sauce that just hints of hot wasabi without adding the heat. Pickled ginger slices complement the dish.

Calamari($8.95) follows the same tradition in a slight variation. Here, calamari poached in white wine arrives with a sauce of lemon wasabi and aged soy and more pickled ginger.

Those looking for conventional bites can opt for the Hot Banana Peppers ($8.50) stuffed with homemade sausage and served with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese.

The Grilled Portobello Mushrooms ($9.25), stuffed with a variety of seafood and artichoke hearts in garlic butter, was a winner. Another version we plan to try on our next visit is stuffed with crab meat and spinach with Fontina cheese ($12.95).

A variety of salads will tempt the adventurous, as well as those with simple tastes.

I fell in love with the Asian Cabbage and Broccoli Slaw ($7.95). This crunchy slaw included toasted sesame seeds and sunflower seeds in a light soy-and-ginger dressing.

Ron's Elegant Blen ($9.50) was excellent with a mix of greens tossed with crisp pancetta bits, gorgonzola cheese, browned potato croutons, dried cranberries and toasted pecans. Every bite included another texture and flavor. Aged balsamic vinaigrette is the dressing.

The most unusual blend is a salad called Warm Fantasy ($8.95), which bakes baby iceberg lettuce with Roquefort dressing, bacon bits and pepper flakes.

From the pasta selections, we tried the Imported Potato Gnocchi ($17.95), which featured light and soft gnocchi with sauteed chicken in a rich and savory pink leek vodka sauce. A side of spinach -- the vegetable of the day -- accompanied.

Pistachio Crusted Tilapi ($19.95) is topped with slices of "drunken" goat's cheese and caramelized onion in melted garlic lemon butter. The day's accompanying starch was a tasty mixture of couscous and tri-colored orzo with chopped veggies and herbs.

Chicken Breast Cordon Bleu a la Lyonnais ($18.95) was unbreaded and sauteed to a golden edge. The stuffing of ham, French brie and mozzarella cheese makes for a rich and filling finish.

Savory sweet and spicy, the very thick Double Cut Pork Chop ($22.75) -- picture three chops stacked up -- was topped with pineapple-mango habanero sauce and served atop fresh raspberry sauce. Amazing. Starch on this day was beautiful jasmine rice with the added textures of yellow split peas and radish seeds. Veggie of the day was green beans with spinach and tomatoes.

Brought in from outside vendors, the Turtle Cheesecake ($6) and Dutch Apple Cranberry Crumb Pie ($5.50) were, nevertheless, worthwhile. The Turtle Cheesecake is a small round rather than a slice, drizzled with chocolate and caramel. Order the apple pie -- warmed, with ice cream -- for an added treat.

But the best dessert of all is the in-house-created Chocolate Chambord Mousse ($7). This creamy treat is in a chocolate cookie crust and should fulfill all of your sweet dreams.